What we fix
- Low water pressure across the whole house (failed PRV, half-closed valve, corroded galvanized)
- High pressure above 80 psi — Bellevue code requires a PRV, and it's what's stressing your fixtures
- Water hammer: pipes that bang when a faucet, washer, or dishwasher shuts off
- Pressure that drops when two fixtures run at once (undersized or corroded supply)
- Water heater T&P valve dripping from pressure spikes (expansion tank failure)
- Single-fixture pressure problems — shower, kitchen sink, outdoor bib
How we work
1
Gauge test first.
A pressure gauge on the hose bib reads static and flowing pressure in two minutes. The number tells us which problem you have.
2
Trace the cause.
PRV, main valve, expansion tank, or pipe material — we isolate which component is responsible before quoting anything.
3
Written flat-rate quote.
On the tablet, before any work. PRV replacement is a same-visit job in most homes.
4
Verify at the fixtures.
Re-test pressure at the bib and the worst fixture, set the PRV to 55 to 60 psi, and walk you through the reading.
Pricing, ballpark
Real prices for our most common water pressure repair and prv replacement jobs. Every quote is flat-rate and written on a tablet before we start.
JobTypical priceNotes
Pressure diagnostic & gauge test$95Waived with repair
PRV replacement (3/4-inch)$425–$785Required by code above 80 psi
Water hammer arrestors (pair, installed)$285–$485Stops the banging at the source
Thermal expansion tank replacement$285–$425Protects the water heater from pressure spikes
“Pressure problems are diagnosis problems. The $10 gauge reading tells the truth in two minutes — anyone who quotes a fix without putting a gauge on the system first is guessing with your money.
— How we actually think about it
From our guides
Deeper background on the issues this service addresses: