Spring plumbing checklist for Bellevue homes: 8 things to inspect after winter

1. Check outdoor faucets for freeze damage

Turn on each outdoor faucet and check both the spout (for normal flow) and the area where the pipe enters the wall (for dripping or damp drywall inside). A cracked hose bib often shows no exterior sign until the hose is connected and pressure is applied.

The most common post-winter plumbing call on the Eastside is an outdoor faucet that cracked during a freeze but didn't show symptoms until spring when someone connected the hose. The crack is usually at the body of the faucet where the pipe meets the casting — visible only if you look at the faucet face-on, or detectable by the damp patch inside the wall behind it.

Test each outdoor faucet by connecting a hose and running it at full pressure for 30 seconds. Then check inside: open the cabinet, closet, or utility room closest to that wall and look for moisture. If you have a standard sillcock (not a frost-free model), this is also a good moment to plan an upgrade — see our outdoor faucet and hose bib guide for the difference.

2. Test the sump pump before peak rainy season

Pour a bucket of water into the sump pit. The pump should activate within a few seconds and clear the water. If it doesn't run, runs but doesn't clear, or makes a grinding noise, it needs service before the next heavy rain.

The Eastside's true wet-season peak is October through January, but May and June bring unpredictable heavy rain events — the kind that fill a sump pit in an hour. A sump pump that failed over winter or wore out from a wet season of constant cycling needs to be identified now, not during the next storm.

Check the float switch: a common failure mode is a float that gets stuck against the side of the pit and prevents the pump from activating. The pump motor may be fine but the switch is stuck. Lift the float manually — if the pump runs when you do, the float needs adjustment or replacement.

Also check the discharge line. Sump pump discharge lines freeze in Bellevue during hard winters and can crack or disconnect. Trace the line from the pump to where it exits the house and confirm it is intact and draining away from the foundation.

3. Flush the water heater to clear sediment

Sediment accumulates at the bottom of tank water heaters, reducing efficiency and accelerating corrosion. An annual flush in spring removes it.

The Eastside's water is relatively soft, but fine particles from the municipal distribution system and the pipe walls accumulate at the bottom of the tank over a year of operation. This sediment layer insulates the heating element (for electric heaters) or the burner (for gas), making the heater work harder and shortening tank life.

Flushing involves attaching a garden hose to the drain valve at the base of the tank and draining 2–3 gallons until the water runs clear. If the water coming out is discolored or contains visible particles, the anode rod should also be inspected — anode rod replacement is the most cost-effective maintenance you can do on a tank water heater to extend its life. Full anode rod guidance is in our anode rod replacement guide.

4. Inspect under sinks for slow leaks

Open every under-sink cabinet and look for water stains on the cabinet floor, white mineral deposits on the P-trap, or soft spots in the cabinet base. Slow leaks from compression fittings and P-trap connections often start in winter and are easy to miss.

Compression fittings and plastic P-trap slip joints are the most common source of under-sink leaks. They can weep slowly for months, softening the cabinet floor and eventually reaching the subfloor beneath. The mineral staining (white or brown rings on the cabinet floor) shows up well before structural damage — spring is a good time to look.

Also check the supply line connections at the shutoff valves and at the faucet. Braided stainless supply lines should be replaced every 5–7 years regardless of visible condition — the internal rubber liner degrades from the inside and can fail without warning.

5. Check toilet bases for rocking and wax ring leaks

Grip each toilet at the bowl rim and gently try to rock it side to side. Any movement means the wax ring seal may be compromised. Also look for staining at the base of the toilet where it meets the floor.

A toilet that rocks on the floor eventually breaks the wax ring seal, allowing sewer gas and water to seep at the base. This causes the characteristic staining at the base and — over time — softens the subfloor beneath the toilet. Catching it early (a slight rock with no visible leak) means a straightforward wax ring replacement; catching it late (discolored water at the base, soft subfloor) means a more involved repair.

6. Check water pressure with a gauge

Attach a $15 pressure gauge to a hose bib. Normal range is 40–80 psi. Above 80 psi damages fixtures and supply lines; below 40 psi suggests a PRV set too low or a supply problem.

Water pressure fluctuates by season and time of day. Spring is a good moment to get a baseline reading, especially in Bellevue neighborhoods with historically high street pressure (lower elevations, areas close to water mains serving denser zones). If the reading exceeds 80 psi, see our water pressure too high guide for the next steps.

7. Inspect the main water shutoff valve

Turn the main shutoff valve all the way closed, then reopen it fully. A valve that sticks, requires excessive force, or won't fully close needs replacement before you need it in an emergency.

The main shutoff is the one valve every member of the household should know how to close in an emergency. If it has not been turned in years, it may be stuck open — corroded in place. Exercise the valve now (close fully, then reopen) so you know whether it works. A gate valve that sticks or a ball valve that won't fully close should be replaced with a new full-port ball valve before it is needed urgently.

8. Check the water heater anode rod (if 3+ years old)

Anode rods protect the tank interior from corrosion. They need replacement every 3–5 years in Eastside water. A depleted anode means the tank itself starts corroding from the inside.

The anode rod is a sacrificial magnesium or aluminum rod suspended inside the tank that corrodes in place of the steel tank walls. When it is depleted — consumed to the steel core wire — the tank starts corroding directly. A tank with a depleted anode that also has sediment accumulation may fail within 1–3 years even if the tank is only 7–8 years old.

Checking and replacing the anode rod is a 30-minute service call and costs $145–$195 including parts. It is the single highest-ROI maintenance item for a water heater that has not been serviced. Full details are in our anode rod replacement guide.